非洲最北端,突尼斯游记,2006年4月2日


一觉睡到天大亮。早餐还是老一套。

按照书上的地图在旅馆附近转了一小圈,看了几个建筑。其实这时候对伊斯兰的建筑已经麻木了。因为有些建筑即便是收门票游客也只能进入到很小一块区域,另外有一些建筑对游客完全不开放。弄到后面很倒胃口。

Mosque

Ribat

Zaouia Zakkak

因为完全没有想要买门票进入的欲望,单单在门外一走一看很快的。Sousse的Medina也算热闹,但是和别的城市的也是大同小异,卖的东西也差不多,我们居然已经对此麻木到一张照片没有拍的地步了。在Medina中过程中遇到几个同胞,打听之下他们愿在十工程招标获胜在这里建水坝。还有在许许多多的路口都站着一个箭头指着有一个博物馆。顺着箭头的一路带领来到这个小小博物馆前一看,居然还不开。

按照书上地图所说,在Medina的西南角落有一个博物馆,里面有精彩的馆藏。按图索骥往那个方向进发,到了那里却发现怎么都走不通的样子,于是我们围着那个角来回转。一个当地人和我们比划手势意思是这块地方是个监狱。还遇到另外一对鬼佬拿着另一份地图也找寻觅中,大家都无功而返。不死心,回到Hotel Medina想去问问旅馆里的人,他们会说英语。经过一番解释他们指出了另一条路。马上退房、寄存行李,很兴奋的按照这条路走下去,最终很沮丧地发现又走到了同一个地方。站在那里反复研究地图,终于醒悟过来书上的地图是错误的,那个博物馆已经不属于Medina的内部了。根据方向一路摸过去,终于气喘吁吁的走到了Sousse Archaeological Museum & Kasbah的门口。

买了博物馆的门票进去一看,满墙满地的马赛克,越看越多,中央天井周围有一圈房间,满是展品,其中一间大厅里面有许多巨幅的马赛克,真的是令人目不暇接。

拜占庭人的石碑

有一间小房间里面摆放着演示马赛克制作过程的东西

中央天井里面的雕像

获胜的罗马皇帝站在战车上,边上是体格强壮的俘虏。

Medusa(美杜莎)



VENUS THE GODDESS OF BEAUTY AND LOVE: With the help of two angels; the naked goddess of beauty and love bathes and washes her hair between the waves. One angel holds a mirror for Venus and the other holds ribbons for her hair. The four angels around Venus represent the four seasons. For example; olives represent winter, flowers represent spring, wheat represents summer and grapes represent autumn.


THE COURTSHIP OF BEACHAUTE AND SATYR: You can see the courtship of Beachaute and Satyr develops through the pictures. At first Satyr tries to take Beachaute but she refuses. But, in the end, she accepts his invitation and they happily leave together dancing. Around Beachaute and Satyr we can see the God of the ocean. He watches as courtship develops and his facial expressions changing as the story evolves. For example sometimes he is happy, angry, surprised and at times he is indifferent.


TRIUMPH OF THE CHARIOT OF BACCUS: In this Roman mosaic we can see the young God Baccus (God of Wine) riding on a chariot. Notice the young Baccus’s handsome face, beautiful, strong body standing tall and proud. His head is decorated with a crown of grapes and he wears a green and crimson robe. Behind him Victoria (Goddess of victory) stands holding a palm leaf in her hand as Beca plays the tambourine, Satyr leads the cortege and there is an identical, Satyr behind the chariot who serves as protection of the cortege. Beginning of III Century AD.


A FISHING SCENE: In the sea with a plentiful amount of fish there are four boats with two fishermen in each boat. The fishermen are fishing four different ways. End of III century AD. Sousse catacombs of Hermes.


TRIUMPH OF NEPTUNE: The naked God (Neptune) is carried on this chariot by two seahorses (Hippocampes, half horse half dragon). In his right hand he holds a trident and with his left hand he holds his ranes. Early II Century AD.


Ce dessin rappelle un motif originatire de la Chine. Il symbolise la dualité du dynamise universal, <<Le Yang et le Yin>> qui ne s’éliminent jamais. IIIe s. ap. J.-C. 这个东西没有英文解释,看法文猜想是三世纪从中国传过去的。


The Great Nile pygmy Hunt. With Hippo, duck and fish. Beginning of II Century AD.


This mosaic shows two boats with fishermen fishing with a trident and nasses. II Century AD.



THE FOUR SEASONS: These four mosaics represent the four seasons. Notice that each angle is placing a crown on a sea horse. On the crown you can see the symbol of the different seasons. Winter is represented with olives. Autumn is represented with grapes. Sprint is shown through flowers (roses). And finally summer is represented with wheat. End of the III Century AD.


The Story of a Attique: In the middle of this mosaic you can see Victoria as she picks the winner’s name out of the vase. Left of Victoria is Minerve (or Athena, protector of El Jem) who is representing them with the branch of the olive tree as a symbol of peace. On the right, is the looser, Neptune. Neptune is coming with his horse to start a war. On the mosaic is written a prophylactic for the evil eye. End of II Century AD.


A poet and a comedian with two masks, symbols of Tragedy and Comedy. Beginning III Century AD. The Poet’s House, Sousse.

其中另外有三个展览房间很隐蔽,我们差点错过。在这三个房间内有更奢华的马赛克。


THE GAME IN AMPHITHEATRE: This mosaic represents the gladiators fight in the amphitheatre. The four gladiators are from the group Teleguinii. In the middle you can see the waiter with the prize. You can read names of the gladiators and of animals. Middle of III Century AD. Smirat (near Moknine)



DINING ROOM MOSAIC: The mosaic on the floor of this room was found in a dining room. There is a representation of four hunters who are trying to kill animals with large knives. Notice that animals are frightened and they are running in all directions. To the left and right you can see the place of benches around the table. III Century.
上面两张是从一个晚餐厅发掘出来的,实在太大,都不可能全部拍进去。大致上说那片地上马赛克所在的位置应该是宴会桌子摆放的地位置。

成功的在博物馆消磨了两个小时的时间又到了中午时分。半个月来廉价的本地食物已经被吃的实在不想再吃了,吃饭成为最头痛问题,经常不得不靠三文治来对付一顿饭,这顿午餐也不例外。

下午在Medina继续到出闲逛的时候看到另一家旅馆,进去看了看都不错,价钱还便宜不少,定了了房间,会原来的旅馆搬出行李过来了。

当天的晚餐连三文治都不愿意吃了,在街上看到一家本地点心铺子,结果挑最贵的点心每样来一点买了一大盒子充当了晚餐。

4月2日费用一览
大瓶矿泉水 0.5 DT
博物馆门票 3 DT * 2 + 1 DT 相机
博物馆厕所 0.1 DT
午餐 4 DT
Hotel Emira 25DT
点心晚餐 9.2 DT
果汁 1.7 DT
大瓶矿泉水 0.5 DT

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